Watercooling ramlings, thoughts and hopefully some advise .........

[{SAS}TB]

Hi

A few months ago I took my first tentative steps into watercooling.

I currently have the following setup (rig in sig):

XSPC Dual 750 Bay Reservoir Pump / Clear (http://www.xs-pc.co.uk/baypump750.php)

Swiftech Apogee GTZ (LGA775) CPU Block (http://www.swiftech.com/products/APOGEE-GTZ.asp)

EK - Full COver 4870x2 Block (http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_31_42&products_id=301)

XSPC RS360 Radiator (http://www.xs-pc.co.uk/rs360black.php)

XSPC G1/4 to 10mm Compression Fitting (http://www.xs-pc.co.uk/accessories.php)

XSPC 10/8mm PVC Tubing (http://www.xs-pc.co.uk/tubing2.php)

10mm Flow Springz (UV Blue)

Feser One Coolant UV Blue (http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info.php?cPath=68&products_id=255)

6 x Noctua NF-S12 1200 RPM 120mm Quiet Case Fan (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=5&lng=en) - 3 on the rad, one top exhuast, one rear exhaust and one door exhaust


The setup has worked (IMO) well but as thw weather is getting milder the temps have eeked up over the last few weeks.

My OCd Q6600 is at 3.62 24/7 and my temps idle around 36 to 40 with the GPU cores arpund low / mid 30s.

I have noticed that the load temps have also started to get higher - even gaming their getting to high 50s / Low 60s.

So after the ramblings, and some musing - would I benefit from a "beefier" pump, new res and larger tubing?

I have read that there is "negligable" difference between tube sizing, but cant help feeling that a larger bore and more pwerful pump would helo my overall temps ??

Any thoughts on this ?

And then, if so, what kit?

I was thinking of a Laing Pump, 1/2" / 3/4" Tubing and a new Bay Res?

Any thoughts / comments would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

TB

[Ammok]

CAn help you with the tube musing I think. The larger the bore diameter, the lower the pressure and therefore the slower the flow will be for any given pump. Keep the same tubing and increase the pump rating so that the flow will increase. Increase flow should rate more heat dissipation.

However, there are other factors to consider. Even with a super fast pump producing significantly increase force, there will be a limit to what heat can be transferred away through the blocks/plates. Also the metal used for the blocks will affect heat transference.
The water flow is probably taking away what heat it can.

For about £45 for the Laing pump, it could be worth while getting one to see if it makes a difference. It has to pump more litres per hour than the one you currently have or i doubt you will see any improvement.

[Nox]

Increase flow should rate more heat dissipation.


Why is this? I would of thought it was the opposite.

Am interested myself, the slower the water the longer it spends in the radiator so the more heat can be removed. But the slower the water in the components so it will be warmer, but hot water cools faster than cold water so... again, would think slow=better. thats the theory in my head anyway. not sure if it's accurate though.

oh, and the pumps quieter. Got a laing myself - very nice pump, went for the pro (slower/quieter!)

Nox

[Nox]

in addition, the faster the water, the more turbulence in the reservoir, so more chance of air getting in your loop.

Nox

[Brad]

DDC 18w + Mcres + 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs = Win.

[Ammok]

Why is this? I would of thought it was the opposite.

Am interested myself, the slower the water the longer it spends in the radiator so the more heat can be removed. But the slower the water in the components so it will be warmer, but hot water cools faster than cold water so... again, would think slow=better. thats the theory in my head anyway. not sure if it's accurate though.

oh, and the pumps quieter. Got a laing myself - very nice pump, went for the pro (slower/quieter!)

Nox

Good theory, but if you follow it through, the slower the water the better, equals no pump, save some dough. If the water stays cold, ie, the heat is taken away, then the cpu must be cold, just like a fan blowing over it. If the water warms up, the temperature differential is less between the block and the water and heat transfers fastest at highest temp differential. Think of dropping a hot coal into boiling water and doing the same into cold, the heat will transfer faster because the temp diff is greater. You can get really cheap digital thermometers now from RS, Maplin, Farnell etc and then it would be possible to monitor the water temp against increasing cpu temp. I would bet there is a direct correlation. I've always fancied plumbing my cpu into the mains so the water is always coming in and doesn't circulate going straight back out, but the missus won't have it. :P

[Brad]

What are your load temps?

[midnightray]

The warmer the room temperature, the warmer the water will be (physics, the water will never go below the room temperature (using watercooling))

I've found the best way possible to reduce temps is to get the latest and greatest in thermal compound and try remounting the CPU waterblock multiple times to find the best fitting.

Well reading through again, a 4870x2 + cpu on one triple rad, guess you could benefit from another rad (probably a double) pump might handle one loop or you could do two.

That setup isn't bad imo.

[{SAS}TB]

What are your load temps?

Not too bad :

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7807/tb3hours.png

Although Core #4 appears to warrant some investigation :S

Thanks for all the feedback guys - Im 1/2 minded to get a new pump / rad / res and tubing, just for the **** of it :D

[TheMadDutchDude]

Those volts are really high for a 3.6GHz overclock! Should be doing it on around 1.45 in BIOS max.

Anyways, apart from that. I think you will benifit most from a new rad added into the loop. Your GPU isn't even loaded and look at the temperatures of your CPU!

[Brad]

i would say not to add another rad but to just replace the one you have.

[Jonny2Bad]

I dont think you'll ever get good temps running the cpu on the same loop as a 4870x2, them babies run hot it should definately be on a different loop imo, maybe a beefier rad would do it but im not sure its worth the risk of spending the money to find its no better. Seperate loops ftw imo ;)

[Brad]

You have a budget rad and pump so your not going to get amazing temps. A friend of mine has a X2 QX9650 @ 4.5Ghz and his NB just on a single PA120.3 and his temps are better than yours.

[Jonny2Bad]

Im certainly no expert at wc at all so will trust Brads advice on this 1 he has more experience in this field.

[Brad]

before buying anything, where is the rad and hows it all set up as this can have an effect on temps.

[teknokid]

Id say a new pump ought to do some good, the drive bay pumps aren't that good at all...

[{SAS}TB]

before buying anything, where is the rad and hows it all set up as this can have an effect on temps.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr83/TEEBEE73/DSC01814.jpg?t=1222197177

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/5397/dsc02307.jpg

http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/4026/dsc01928te0.jpg

:D

Drunk :P

[{SAS}TB]

Those volts are really high for a 3.6GHz overclock! Should be doing it on around 1.45 in BIOS max.

Anyways, apart from that. I think you will benifit most from a new rad added into the loop. Your GPU isn't even loaded and look at the temperatures of your CPU!

The volts have always been on "Auto" - Ive had a play and it needs 1.44 to play ball @3.6- how is that ?

[TheMadDutchDude]

Auto is not the best to use, it's always best to tweak it yourself as the motherboard often puts either to much or to little volts through the chip. In your case, to much.

Now, why do you only have one fan in the side of your case?

[{SAS}TB]

Auto is not the best to use, it's always best to tweak it yourself as the motherboard often puts either to much or to little volts through the chip. In your case, to much.

Now, why do you only have one fan in the side of your case?

Cheers

Im just lazy I guess mate :P

I have it on manual 1.44 now :)

I have six fans in my case - 3 pulling air in over the rad, one on the side door, one extract at the back and one extract in the top of the case :)

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1716/fans.png

[Brad]

A thermochill would be better suited to those low spinning fans. The thinner rads need more air pushed through em to be as effective. I would swap the rad out for a feser or thermochill triple and go from there, you could always swap to some 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs while ur there as its only a small price.

[{SAS}TB]

Thanks mate

What about the XSPC RX rads - are they any good ?

All advice is much appreciated :D

[Brad]

Iv heard mixed reports tbh. Unless your like totally skint then get a thermochill and sell ur old rad.

[teknokid]

ID agree, always heard good things about thermo's.

[{SAS}TB]

Thanks again

I think ill bite the bullet and make a purchase, but a few more questions (sorry):

Res - was going down the route of bay mounted, but not 100% decided. I have a dual bay res / pump - i went for the dual as (in my mind) the more water the better (?) If i do go bay mounted are there ant pros / cons of a single or dual ?

The other option is one attached to the pump / top - if so any things to look out for / avoid ?

Tubing : 1/2" ID or 7/16 ?

Clips :Current set up uses compression fitting so i never really looked into them - Re the plastic clips OK or jubilee clips - do i need them at all ??

Sorry for all the questions :)

Cheers

TB

[teknokid]

I'd recomend sticking with 1/2" tubing and 1/2" barbs, with jubilee clips, the plastic ones are a little rubbish.

The res is upto you, it wont have any effect on performance whatever you get, unless the pump is submerged in the res, which is unlikely.

[{SAS}TB]

Thanks

How is the Laing DDC-Pump 12V Ultra with Alphacool Water Tank ?

[teknokid]

Thanks

How is the Laing DDC-Pump 12V Ultra with Alphacool Water Tank ?


yup, nice combination :)

[Brad]

Nearly everyone I know uses 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs with cable ties as it looks by far the neatest. As your running multi blocks get a DDC 18w and a plain old single bay res if thats what u really want.

[{SAS}TB]

The more i see them the more I like the top / res combo (although im having a job finding anywhere stocking all the parts :S )

Looks like Ive found somewhere, just make / size of tube and barbs

More questions (:P) Danger Den barbs ok ? If so "High Flow" or "Fat boy" ?!?!

Dear god this is confusing !

[Brad]

Dropped ya a PM.

[{SAS}TB]

Cheers mate

Replied :)

[Ammok]

Thats a nice setup you have {sas}tb, and some nice photos. You say you have switched to 1.44volts, what is the temp drop you got?

[{SAS}TB]

Thats a nice setup you have {sas}tb, and some nice photos. You say you have switched to 1.44volts, what is the temp drop you got?

Thanks :D

The effect is negligible TBH - but lower voltage the better I suppose :)

Ive purchased the Laing pump with XSPC top / res a triple Thermochill all with 1/2" barbs and 7/16 tubing - should come later this week ill post the results and some pics once its all in place

Thanks very much for all your advice guys :D

TB

[Brad]

You have about the best water loop money can buy now.

[{SAS}TB]

"cool" :P


Thanks again ;)

[{SAS}TB]

Well all the parts are here, the old rig is stripped and drained down.

New Pump / res in place and the rad flushed and barbed up :P

The new rad is slightly longer and the fixing positions different to the last rad, so (hopefully tonight) ill be introducing Mr.Jigsaw and Mr.Drill to my case again to make things line up.

Unfortunately the rad came without fixing screws (Thermochill were extremely helpful and apologetic) and they are in the post today :D

So, all going well, I should be hopefully up and running by the end of the weekend / early next week some some pics of the ne setup.

Cheers

TB

[cycloneray]

want see some pic's when its done mate,

sounds great tho

[Saftlad]

Any chance we can see the full shopping list and prices? Would give interested parties an idea of the total cost

Cheers

[{SAS}TB]

Of course :

1 x Thermochill PA 120.3 - £54.63

2 x G3/8" Barbs - £4.58

1 x Laing 18W DCC Pump with 1 x XSPC Top / Res - £79.63

1x Laing L Stand - £5.74

8 x DTEK High Flow Barbs (only needed 6 - the 2 for the rad were a different size) - £18.31

3m x XSPC 7/16" Clear / UV Blue Tubing - £7.82

3m x PrimoChill Coils (White) - £8.59

1 x 30 Pack of Black Cable Ties - £1.12

Total £180.42 (including VAT and excluding delivery - delivery was about £17 as I had to use two different suppliers).

I'll be using Feser One UV Blue Liquid (but already had that :))

[Saftlad]

A lot less than I expected, thanks. Can't wait to see what improvement in temps you get.

This would fit easily into my case

[{SAS}TB]

Obviously I already had the CPU and GPU water blocks :)

[Saftlad]

Yeah, I'm thinking another £50-60 for the cpu block, plus £20 for fans

[{SAS}TB]

Yeah - I think I paid about £45 for the swiftech GTZ but splashed out on 6 Noctuas :S

[cycloneray]

i thought it was going to be a lot more then that. so if i looked at about 300 to 350 for full system including cpu and gpu coolers, that dont sound as bad as i thought it was going to be

[{SAS}TB]

Right, so finally got the parts and being swapping the kit over for the last few days - still have some bits and bobs (cable management and a few other things) to sort out, but here we go ............

Got the new pump attached to the mobo tray and all plumbed up ....

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/7972/incase.jpg

Losing the bay res has freed back up enough room to get a 120mm fan in the front of the case, which now looks like this (the door is not fitted on this shot):

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/7161/frontdne.jpg

Some of the inside with it all filled up and ready to go

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/7118/incase1.jpg

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/3375/incase2.jpg

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/5898/incase3.jpg

Now for the temps .............

I was idling around mid 30s @ 3.6 - bearing in mind the general temperature (weather wise) has gone up a few degrees over the last few days, im quite happy with these:

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3770/idle.png

Under load I was getting high 60s (sometimes into the 70s) with a core dropping

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7807/tb3hours.png

Ive solved the core dropping by adjusting the the voltages and my Prime temps have dropped by quite a bit:

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/2977/loadn.png

And passes five IBT tests at max temp of 77 :D

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/4110/tbibt.png

So all in all my temps have seen a good drop, I like the set up better and jobs a good um, ill get some pics in the dark with teh UV on later

Ta


TB

[Jonny2Bad]

See now this is a tough one for me your gpu temps may be very good, but my temps on my £40 TRUE BLK at 3.6ghz never go above 61c on all cores at full prime load. So just doesnt cut it for me at that speed, but that said im only on 1.4 vcore for my 3.6 your on 1.48v (ouch). I may have a little test on 1.48v later if i can and see how it compares but for the extra money spent it doesnt rock my boat yet, and ive been thinking about having a go at wc. But the TRUEBLK is holding up very well at those temps imo.
Still think another loop would have been the better way to go maybe but i'm not experienced enough to make a strong comment on it really.

[teknokid]

See now this is a tough one for me your gpu temps may be very good, but my temps on my £40 TRUE BLK at 3.6ghz never go above 61c on all cores at full prime load. So just doesnt cut it for me at that speed, but that said im only on 1.4 vcore for my 3.6 your on 1.48v (ouch). I may have a little test on 1.48v later if i can and see how it compares but for the extra money spent it doesnt rock my boat yet, and ive been thinking about having a go at wc. But the TRUEBLK is holding up very well at those temps imo.
Still think another loop would have been the better way to go maybe but i'm not experienced enough to make a strong comment on it really.

Jonny, Im using 2 very thin rads, and my temps at 3.6ghz are better than his..

I am using 1.475v though, so slightly less.

I think if you had a dedicated loop atleast another 20 degs would drop off that.

[Jonny2Bad]

Yeah i did say it at the start but i was on my own with the 2nd loop idea tbh, those temps are too high for wc imo, not worth the money at all.

[{SAS}TB]

i dont have the space for two thin rads or two loops :(

I had a TRUE and TBH, even lapped, with a lapped Q6600 it couldn't match the temps that the watercooling gives, but different set ups, different kit, different results etc.

The set up is better than the last and im happy with it - each to their own i suppose :D

[Jonny2Bad]

Well yes indeed totally agree, but i was just pointing out its doesn't seem right too me at 3.6 for water cooling its not right. But if your happy with it that's cool im certainly not knocking it on a personal basis just wanting you to get the most for your money. Which its my feeling your not. True each to their own though glad your happy. ;)

[{SAS}TB]

TRUEs also dont help cool the x2 :P

I still have to play about with fan speeds, and if im totally honest i think ill reseat the CPU as the temp difference over the cores is not as close as it used to be :S

Bearing in mind the increase of the current ambient room temperatures and the drop in overall load temps im more than happy ;)

[Brad]

U gotta understand that his rig is near to silent when with a true and a X2 it would be no where near.

[Jonny2Bad]

Do those 3 1200 fans not make any noise then? Compared to the 3 i have in my case? I know the 4870x2 is a noisy beast but is silence really that golden lol literally? Heh I'm really not making an issue here chaps just saying if it was my hard earned money i'd not be happy with the cooling. Silent or not.

[{SAS}TB]

There are 6 fans and the pump and they are VERY quiet :)

[Brad]

well my fans on my triple are running at maybe 700rpm so are totally silent. Wc is not just temps its the way it looks and the silence. The loudest part of my rig is a noctua running at like 1200rpm.

[Nox]

Nearly everyone I know uses 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs with cable ties as it looks by far the neatest.

Second only to AC stuff :D

Nox

[{SAS}TB]

Temps are a bit better this morning with lower ambients :

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/9485/mooningtemps.png

And some from last night:

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/8953/uv3.jpg

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8438/uv2.jpg

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6064/uv1.jpg

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8264/caseon.jpg

[{SAS}TB]

I know its tad cooler today, but the temps have dropped slowly over the last few days:

PC was on for 1/2 hour this morning and:

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6701/coolp.png

And then just taken and its been on for almost 4 hours :

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/3627/cool2e.png

:D

[midnightray]

nice clean setup mate! :)

Going to be using the same pump/res top in my current build.

[{SAS}TB]

nice clean setup mate! :)

Going to be using the same pump/res top in my current build.

Thanks matey :D

Pics I hope ?

[{SAS}TB]

I have always disliked the fact that the GFX card cables couldnt be hidden away more:

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/5672/beforey.png

So i chopped some spare lengths of tubing, sliced the length and wrapped them round the cables, threaded some coils over the connectors and voila:

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/1585/dsc02340d.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/294/dsc02342x.jpg

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/4219/after.jpg

I think it looks better - and you cant really see it with the side on the case :P

[Brad]

lol dont look too bad.

[{SAS}TB]

Quick Q

Do you think a single Thermochill PA 120.1 would cool the x2 ??

Ta

TB

[TheMadDutchDude]

I highly doubt it! Those things produce far to much heat.

[{SAS}TB]

I know :|

Thanks, was just thinking of a quick and cheap upgrade :P

[Brad]

A PA120.1 would cool a X2 no problem. I had a X2 and my NB on a crappy XSPC RS240 with slow running 20mm yates and it cooled it no worries.

[{SAS}TB]

lol, we have a difference of opinion :P

I was thinking of whacking a Termochill PA120.1 in the roof of my case for the GFX then the 120.3 for the CPU :D

Just need to see if I could fit another pump in or get a cheap single bay res /pump

[Brad]

X2 is warm running but not that bad. Just think of the cooling area of that PA120.1 over the stock heatsink. Massive difference. That set up ur thinking would be ideal, even add the mobo in the triple if ya wanted.

[{SAS}TB]

The X2 is currently in the loop with the CPU - so i have the block, fittings and tube in place, just a bit more pipe, a new rad and a pump / res :D

/looks at prices

Ta Brad

[{SAS}TB]

Looks like a thermochill would be VERY tight, if indeed fit - whats the best bet out of a Black Ice GT, Black Ice GT Extreme or XSPX RS120 ?

Ta again

TB

[Brad]

No idea dude. A RS240 cooled mine fine so any of em should be "ok". the Black ice GT extreme sounds the best by the name lol.

[{SAS}TB]

rofl thats what i thought :P

[kimandsally]

You have a budget rad and pump so your not going to get amazing temps. A friend of mine has a X2 QX9650 @ 4.5Ghz and his NB just on a single PA120.3 and his temps are better than yours.

Top choice the PA120.3 for sure massive cooling ability.

[kimandsally]

lol, we have a difference of opinion :P

I was thinking of whacking a Termochill PA120.1 in the roof of my case for the GFX then the 120.3 for the CPU :D

Just need to see if I could fit another pump in or get a cheap single bay res /pump

Probably the way to go.

[kimandsally]

U gotta understand that his rig is near to silent when with a true and a X2 it would be no where near.

Just reading this whole thread and this point in my opinion is very important, I have the same water setup and have a bigNG fan controller which keeps my rig so quiet you can only hear the pump and hard drives, yet it still did 3.9GHz on a Q6600 allthough at 3.9GHz the bigNG has the fans spinning up because of the temp increase.

[{SAS}TB]

lol, me again :P

So, I can probably just about squeeze an additional Thermochill PA 120.1 into the roof of the case and also have room to get a single bay res/pump combo.

Decisions, decisions - Do I:

(A) Add the GPU in a new, seperate, loop with the pump / res and PA120.1 (keeping the CPU on the PA120.3 by itself:

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/6008/option1.png

OR

(B) Add the PA120.1 into the loop ?

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/740/option2.png

Will either yield better results?

Im tended to think seperate loops would be better - but as there are a lot of people that know a lot more about these things than me, so its over to you ..............


Many thanks

TB

[Brad]

I would go with the first but if u got a TC triple in the bottom then it should handle it fine.

[{SAS}TB]

I have a tripple in the bottom and the single bay res/pump and the PA120.1 beling delivered tomorrow.

So I have the chioce of either of the above

Thanks Brad ;)

TB

[{SAS}TB]

So i decided to mess about with my watercooling :P

Itchy fingers and all that I decided to add an additional Thermochill PA120.1 into the case to take the x2 and leave the TC PA 120.3 just for the CPU :D

I did envisage it sitting in the roof of the case (it is does fit) just far to tight to get the rad, with fan and fan holder attached and into place and I really wanted to have the fan in the fan holder for neatness.

After a bit of experimenting I realised (with a re-jig of my drive bays, I could fit the rad / fan in the front of the case, so off i went ...................

First of all I drilled the four screw holes out of the fan holder so I could screw through it, the fan and into the rad, for a more secure job (more on this later !) and removed the filter and mesh front, and clipped the fan into place:

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/9310/dsc02416.jpg

I then screwed the fan and holder onto the rad :

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5230/dsc02423.jpg

You may notice the "bulge" to the side, this is as you screw the holder tight to the rad the clips holding the fan are forced apart (I eventually cut these back and re-arranged the attachment of the whole set up as it fouled the edging that closes over the side of the drive bays :|

Back to the screws (ahhhhh!!!!!) I would suggest you check, then double check, the screws and attachment to the rad very carefully - The rad shown is the second I had to purchase as I pierced the first one resulting in blue Feser pissing all over my study floor :(

As you can see the screws supplied by Thermochill (on the right) are longer than those supplied by a third party supplier for TC rads!

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6725/dsc02421g.jpg

I would like to say at this point Steve at TC was very good through all of this offering advice on how to repair the hole and giving me a discount on the replacement. Also note the "other" screws are a better size, but possibly a tad short for some situations. Anyway on with the job at hand ....

Space wise I didn't see how id get another DCC pump / res in and didn't want to spend the money on what started out as an experiment so I opted for a single drive bay pump / res combo (I may swap this out at a later date) - I dont particularly like the look of them so i taped the mesh front from a single bay infill to the front of the res to camouflage it a bit:

http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/6695/dsc02419.jpg

So after that all went relatively well and the front of the rig (with the door open) now looks like so (Still deciding on whether to remove the chrome fan guard and replace it with mesh) but for now :

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6227/dsc02439j.jpg

Also fitted a new 6 channel fan controller

I did actually strip the fan / holder pump down and eventually use the even shorter screws to screw the fan to the rad through the closest holes and then thread the soft fan mounts through the other holes, through the fan holder and through the grilles.

So all in place and fired up :

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1636/dsc02436o.jpg

After looking at the set up with them on and off I decided to take the springs / coils off

With UVs on (although its not particularly dark atm - ill get some better shots) :

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/5130/dsc02440z.jpg

[{SAS}TB]

Idle temps are down 5-7 degrees although ambient room temp is up a few - so all in all a good drop from removing the x2 from the loop and the x2 temps aren't too shabby either :D

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6585/newloopidle.png

Under load (see max temps) using IBT:

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/9441/newloopibtloads.png

Realtemp cool down test (maxxed out on Prime @ 50)

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6107/newlooprtprimecooldown.png

And some real nice temps on a cool morning (yesterday ) :)

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6121/coolqup.png

[Ammok]

Thats a really nice job you done there, it looks fantastic as well.

[{SAS}TB]

Thanks very much ! - Cheers :D

Also helped with my CPU Overclock - although it did take 1.61v :eek:

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/5764/tb3978.png

[Brad]

Glad ur happy with it dude.

[{SAS}TB]

Yeah, thanks for the advise mate :)