Going to watercool. Some advice needed.

[cje]

I have the striker II extreme mobo and it won't clock far because it overheats and causes bsods. The thread dedicated to this board on xtremesystems forums, there are other people who have problems with their boards when getting to the high 50s.

I know it's a heat issue because I rigged up an extremely noisy 60mm delta fan on it, and it kept temps around 52 load, and the pc worked fine for days, but I got a big headache though!!

ASUS tell me that the board should be fine with these temps. Novatech support also say the same thing. But this problem isn't unique to me, because many others have problems with their boards around this mark.

ASUS sugest an RMA, but novatech will only test it on stock settings, where the temps won't exceeed 52 and therefore won't run into this problem.

Therefore I am going to watercool it. The barbs on the fusion block ar 3/8", so I am going to use 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing for the whole loop. I know I can use the adapters that are supplied with the board, but I've read that those things are prone to leaks.

Radiator: Thermochill PA120.2 double (if I can get hold of one, or a TFC xchanger double rad)

Reservoir: XSPC 750 dual bay res and pump.

CPU block: Swiftech Apogee GTZ (again, if I can get hold of one, if I can't get hold of one I was thinking of the XSPC delta V3 block?)

Fittings: TFC compression fittings G1/4" thread 3/8" ID 1/2"OD - High flow

Coolant: Something that won't hurt the fusion block on the motherboard. It looks like copper, but it is actually Aluminium!!

Tubing: Some 3/8" ID 1/2" OD of whatever I can find, and probably some anti-kink coils.

Anything I've missed or chosen a bad product? This will be my first time watercooling, so be gentle. I understand the risks involved, but when I get it to work, I can then concentrate on getting my rig to run that little bit faster. Also, I am not looking to cool my gfx cards. Well, not this time around anyway.

[Brad]

Before u splash out i think its worth pulling off all the stock heatsinks and re applying the TIm paste with some decent stuff. No point WCing it if its been applied badly with could very well be a big part of the problem. I wouldn't want to go mixing metals but if you do you will need a fair gulp of anti corrosive. Spec looks ok accept i don't really hear the pump/res is that highly rated.

[TheMadDutchDude]

That would help! I have seen that on another forum where I overclock for. Someone has a Rampage Extreme (LGA775) and the cooling block on the MOSFETs are not even touching! VERY badly applied by Asus and therefore he was not able to get any decent overclocks. He has taken it all off, reapplied new TIM/Thermal pads and it is currently under testing but I reckon it will work a lot better now!

Remember, use MX2 instead of AS5 because AS5 is conductive!

[cje]

I contacted Novatech tech support yesterday afternoon, and he said that I should contact ASUS regarding this problem. If they say it's ok, then it'll be ok to try it. I am still awaiting a reply from ASUS at the moment.

If I can re-apply the paste, then it'll be ace, as I don't particularly WANT to water cool it, as I've never done so before. But, if ASUS say no, then I don't really have another option but to watercool.

As for MX-2, yeah, there's a great sticky on the ASUS forums regarding how to re apply it, and using mx-2 or ceramique. I'll use mx-2.

As for the res/pump combo, even though I have an Antec 1200, space is pretty limited because of the 2 gfx cards, and soon to there'll be a third. So a bay reservoir would be needed, but I can't find space for a pump.

The rad will be mounted by a radbox on the rear of the 1200 case exhaust fans.

[Brad]

Why are u asking for permission to take them off? Its not like anyone will ever know.

[TheMadDutchDude]

CJ, why don't you mound the rad internally on the back fans? Or externally on the back fan slots ;)

I'd just do it. Asus will not know if you've taken it off but to be careful! If it won't come off, do NOT tug it and hope for the best. Get a hairdryer, warm it up gently (don't fry it!) and it should come with much easier.

[cje]

@maddutchdude Yeah, if I'll be going to watercool, I will be mounting the rad on the back fan slots.

@brad, I thought it to be better safe. If it died in a year, I don't want ASUS to refuse an RMA because of "tampering". I don't know, I've always urged the side of caution.

EDIT - also, I thought WC would be best, as my Noctua can't cope with 1.5vcore, which my Q6600 needs for 3.6ghz. So I thought, best of both worlds, I can push my q6600 to 3.6ghz, whilst also cooling my board down.

EDIT 2 - The best scenario would be that ASUS told me that it wouldn't void warranty, then I wouldn't have to bother watercooling. Sooo frustrating!

[Brad]

Well they wont know. I RMAed a 4 month old dfi board cus i messed a bios flash up which i removed the stock heatsinks and all went well with a brand new board in the post. I was worried about the bios flash not been covered more than block removal.

[cje]

Aye, well, I'll try that. But I think my mind is set on watercooling anyway. As I want faster.

If the 750 bay res/pump combo is out, what can you suggest as an alternative?

I did want a bay mounted reservoir, as I don't have much space in my case. Also, I'll be going tri-sli soon, so there'll be not much room for a pump inside the case.

[Brad]

Its a full tower case. Theres gotta be room in there.

[cje]

Not really, my Zalman PSU is big, and my HDDs are in the bottom cage, so no way of mounting a res/pump combo on the bottom of the case. Also the power cables coming out of the PSU are blocking any free space down there. I could move the HDD cage up, but it wouldn't look nice at all.

I am currently searching the internet for watercooled 1200's. Seeing what pump and res they're using.

Also, I know a 1/2" ID hose is better than a 3/8" due to a higher flow, but if I'm plumbing the fusion block, the flow will be held back by that anyway wouldn't it? Easier just use 3/8" for all of it isn't it?

EDIT - This is an option. A bay mounted res, and a pump on the bottom like this:
http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/8658/pc073vq2.jpg


EDIT - his PSU is much smaller than mine. My PSU has about 3" clearance from where it ends, and where the drive cages are. I could never fit that pump like that, it would have to be tucked into the drive cage a bit more.

[cje]

And I've found a pic of someone using a 1/2" hose, and the adapters to plumb the "fusion block":
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g307/andyocuk/DSC00020.jpg

EDIT - What pump/ reservoir combination would you recommend, seeing the pciture of the 1200 above? It'll be a tight squeeeze for anything other than a bay res I'd have thought.


Thanks very much for your advice so far mate.

[Brad]

Ok so you got what 2-3 hdds right at the bottom of the case. And a dvd drive right at the top of the case. What is filling the 8-9 drive bays in the front? That last pic is shocking. Why wont a rad fit above the mobo in the roof?

[cje]

The rad won't fit there because there's an Antec big boy fan there. Nothing really to mount a rad there,it is possible, but a lot of case modding would be required, which I don't have the tools to do some metalwork.

Done right, the rad will look OK mounted on the back like that. I was going to use a swiftech radbox to mount it there, I've found other photos that look much better than the one I posted there.

I have 2 HDDs in the bottom cage. But i don't really want to route tubing down there, my gfx cards are in the way there, and also, the front 120mm fan there does a good job of supplying cold air to the gfx cards. This will be important when I get my 3rd 9800 card.

here are some pictures. I know my cable management is a mess at the moment. That will be sorted soon hopefully.

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8540/img1653i.th.jpg (http://img27.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1653i.jpg)

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8513/img1654u.th.jpg (http://img12.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1654u.jpg)

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4725/img1655r.th.jpg (http://img12.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1655r.jpg)

2 HDDs in bottom drive cage. 2 optical drives + a card reader (that isn't working at the moment) in the top 3 5.25" bays. 2 emtpy drive cages. With 1 cage with a 120mm Akasa fan on the end.

Having a think, maybe a 18w DDC pump, coupled with the Switched mres? I coul move the HDD cage up, and place both the res an pump at the bottom of the case?

[gatecrasherlok]

I just recommend taking the whole heatsink off and taking that cement type stuff that asus decided to put on to pass as thermalcompound straight off. It took me a while to get that stuff off my striker 2 formula. I then reapplied some nice mx-2 to it. Immediately I was able to overclock past 3.0ghz and temsp went down from 79-82 NB temp to 65-72.

I then bought an el cheapo 40 mm akasa fan and attached it to the heatsink and it stays around 54-62 which is a great improvement.

Now I have my Q6600 at 3.5 ghz which is good (nothing ground breaking but better than 3.0ghz).

I'll upload a picture of what it looks liek with a fan on it soonish.

[cje]

Yeah, I've already got an Akasa 40mm blue chipset fan on it. Temps would be around 54 load, with it it' around 50 load. (Stock volts).

[Brad]

Well i would vote for a DDC + mcres over a all in one bay jobby anyday.

[cje]

Yeah, seen a lot of 1200 owners with a micro res and DDC pump. I think it' one of those situations where I'll have to buy them, then just see where I can fit them :p.

EDIT- Novatech doesn't stock these items, so I guess it is ok for you to suggest where I can get them from? I've used ocUk before, but they don't have any stock of what I need. Are there any other retailers in the UK I can trust/ you would recommend? Cheers.

[Brad]

I wouldnt touch Ocuk for anything computer related let alone water related. The company thats sponsoring my build are very decent and go outa there way to help you out. www.chilledpc.co.uk (http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/)

[cje]

Great! I had seen them, but I haven't used them before, so a bit wary. Also, what fluid would you recommend? Bearing in mind that the ASUS fusion block is aluminium. Would it be better if I got an aluminium cpu block as well then? (if there is such a thing).

You mentioned that you wouldn't like to mix metals. I have no choice with the fusion block, and will probably get some corrosion unless I use high grade fluid. Also, I want it to be as non-conductive as possible incase I do get leaks. :D

[{SAS}TB]

I wouldnt touch Ocuk for anything

+1 ;)

And the link Brad has given you is highly recommended :)

[cje]

Great, but they don't have any pumps in stock. I think I might give them a call mid week anyway to order the stuff. And I'm sure they can help me if I've left some stuff out.

Also, what do you guys think of compression fittings? What's wrong with some barbs and screwdriver metal hoseclips?

EDIT - Also, what rad would you guys recommend? seeing that I'm cooling cpu and NB. Also, what power pump, 10w or 18w?

[Brad]

Ummmm im not 100% sure on this as everyone just keeps away from it. I just run distilled water and PT nuke but i dont get leaks. Even something like feser thats supposed to be non conductive will still kill a mobo or GPU if enough leaks and the whole time u run it your blocks are been stained. This (http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=67_79&products_id=163) G12 with some PT nuke would prolly do it and even maybe add it to some feser yet i dunno what the outcome would be. Well if you can afford a 18w then do but if not then a 10w should be ok. Rads go for a thermochill 120.2. I actually know of a load of WC gear that a friend is selling. TC PA120.2 with fans, GTZ and said he would throw in a normal bay res if u wanted the rad and block. PM me if interested and will get u a price.


Edit* drop Tom the owner or drop by the forums in regards to the pump as when they have only a few left they go outa stock on site but normally got few bits here and there. I used compression fittings for my first build but ever since i just use tubing with barbs.

[cje]

I think I'll ask the guys when I put in the order. I don't mind paying for an all in one coolant, if it works. :p

Also, should I consider putting in a ball valve and a T, so that I can drain it easily, if something goes wrong?

[Brad]

You can but just leaktest for abit before u turn the rest f the system on first.

[oggie]

Hi cje

I'm bradleys mate that has loop to sell, pm me if you interested

cheers mate ;)

[cje]

I am interested. I'll PM you then.

[kimandsally]

I wouldnt touch Ocuk for anything computer related let alone water related. The company thats sponsoring my build are very decent and go outa there way to help you out. www.chilledpc.co.uk (http://www.chilledpc.co.uk)

100% agreed on both points, over cockers UK not good.

[cje]

A reservoir isn't essential is it? having said that, I can't really drill my case for a fillport, so I think it would be.

I understand how to bleed and fill up a WC system with a T line, but how would you do this with a res?

[TheMadDutchDude]

A reservoir is not essential. You can just use a T-Line if you're happy with that although I'd prefer to have the res as a back up.

[cje]

Ok, I think a res would be a good idea, as I don't possess any metalworking case to install a fillport on the top of my case.

So, a single bay res would be in the one of the top three 5.25" bays. (Or A microres in somewhere similar. Unsure of where I'll mount it yet.)

Then, the pump will have to be mounted lower than the reservoir, in order for it to get liquid when I first fill the res up.

The order of things in my loop will be:

reservoir> pump> CPU block> NB block> radiator> reservoir

This sound ok?

[{SAS}TB]

Loop order shouldnt make any significant difference as the temp of the loop will setlle out - just the res before the pump (from what ive read) to avoid the risk of the pump runing dry :)

[Brad]

That loop order is ideal.